Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Lincoln, Nebraska

        After spending the week in the Dakotas, I was eager to return to a more populated area. Lincoln was my next destination, and while some may not think of Nebraska as a bustling metropolis, it was nice just to be in a state that was home to more than 1 million people. Not only was I going to be able to eat delicious food, but it was also the weekend, and I had the privilege of staying in the Cornhusker state for three whole days. I was looking forward to kicking back and renting a movie, and perhaps cooking a nice meal. It was also less than two weeks before I would be arriving in Texas. I had been on the road for a month, it was kind of liberating, but also a little mindboggling to think about. I was beginning to get very tired of hotels.
            When I first descended from the interstate into the heart of downtown, I have to admit I was thrilled to be back in a city. It was Saturday night, and there were throngs of young people walking about, laughing and filled with that weekend glow. As tired as I was from another day of travel, it was exciting to be in a thriving college town. While I was looking forward to relaxing for the first time in a week, I also felt rejuvenated by my surroundings. The first concrete thing that I noticed about Lincoln, Nebraska was that they used a very logical system to name streets. Streets that ran north to south were named numerically, from west to east. For example, if you encountered 4th street, you would know that you were in the western most part of the city, whereas 84th street signified that you are located in the east. Logically, the streets traveling west to east were named with a letter of the alphabet that began in the South and ascended to the North. Therefore, if you were at A Street, you were at the southern-most tip of what could honestly be called “downtown,” and if you were at Y Street, you were in the Northern part of the city around the college campus. It was very easy to decipher, and I was thrilled at the simplicity of it. Washington D.C. follows a similar pattern, and it is because it was planned. Cities that expanded rapidly around ports, like Boston, did not benefit from this glorious foresight.
 I located my hotel without difficulty. It was in the southeastern part of the city in a residential area, away from most of the hubbub. As usual, I decided on a Candlewood Suites, mostly because I wanted to cook myself a few nice meals over the weekend, and they always include a full kitchen complete with stovetop and dishwasher. I checked in, loaded a luggage cart to capacity with my belongings, and transported it to my temporary home. Once everything was organized in its usual place, the toiletries in the bathroom, my clothes by the bed, and the cooler emptied into the fridge and stored in the closet, I could finally unwind. I switched on the TV and sunk into the pillow top mattress, welcoming sweet oblivion.
            Sunday was filled with glorious nothing. I relaxed in the hotel room, watched the Great Gatsby, and cooked some delicious tacos. I explored the area a little in search of coffee and groceries, but mostly I reveled in the solace of a hotel during the day; until check-in time, even a library isn’t as quiet. A month on the road is very taxing, and it is incredible how travel makes you hurt like never before. Even the little muscles next to my tibia ached! Being able to enjoy one day a week when I was neither walking around Capitols and museums nor confined for hours in a car was a blessing I had grown to appreciate without regret. Combined with the fact that most of the country does not operate to its fullest extent on Sundays, this meant that it was, thankfully, my day of rest. Don’t get me wrong, a good portion of the day was spent writing blog posts and working on college applications, but I was happy just to spend the day in my pajamas.
            The next day, I awoke around the usual time, and headed into the city. First, I went to the Nebraska State Museum on the University of Nebraska campus. I realized shortly after paying admission that I had mistakenly gone to a museum of natural history rather than a museum of social history. There were no dates and important political figures, but rather a bunch of mammoth and elephant skeletons. To be honest, I was delighted in the change of pace, and I seized the opportunity with gusto. I walked around for quite a while looking at all of the displays, examining artifacts and taking in all sorts of information. 

          On the second floor there was a magnificent exhibit of all kinds of quartz found throughout Nebraska. In all shapes, colors, and sizes, quartz is a very beautiful substance. Some of the samples even glowed in dark! I loved it, to say the least. 

           Although my visit was pleasant, I had to see the Capitol that same day, so I left the building behind in search of that temple of state. I heard at several of my other stops so far that Nebraska’s capitol was particularly beautiful. Knowing that it was one of the skyscraper Capitols, I have to admit that I was somewhat skeptical.
            When I arrived at the Capitol, my first impression was that it was grand. Unlike the North Dakota Capitol, this skyscraper seemed to hold a little more promise. The base was sprawled around the tower, encompassing it’s own block in the southern edge of downtown. I snapped a few pictures of the outside before heading inside through the doors on the ground floor, assuming that the main doors would be locked. My first impression was that I had transported to a dungeon in medieval times. The ceiling was low, and the hallway was dimly lit. There was an information desk in the center of the ground floor, but no one was behind it. I found the stairs and began to climb. When I reached the second floor, the first thing I noticed were two large doors colored in vivid designs. I rounded the corner, and gasped as the ceiling soared above me. A large chandelier dominated the space, but the mosaic floor designs and glorious paintings were beyond words.


The tour started in the Great Hall, where several different murals depicted scenes in Nebraska history. One of the murals in the Great Hall depicted the Blizzard of 1888, one of the most severe snowstorms to ever hit Nebraska. It came on so suddenly that many people lost their lives. In fourteen hours, the temperature plummeted from 30 degrees in the morning to 14 below later that night. In an act of heroism, 19-year-old schoolteacher Minnie Freeman tied her students together and led them to safety at a nearby farmhouse through the howling wind and blinding whiteouts after the roof was torn off of their schoolhouse. Unfortunately, many others were not so lucky.
            We moved on to the only legislative chamber currently in use; Nebraska is the only state with a unicameral legislature. The second chamber is behind the vividly colored doors I spotted on my way up from the ground level. Senators run on a ballot devoid of political affiliations, and therefore must win on their own merit. As with many states, Nebraska’s legislature does not run all year, and the legislature was out of session when I visited. Our next stop was the Supreme Court room, where the seven Nebraska Supreme Court justices meet once a month to hear oral arguments. The room has perfect acoustics and a beautiful American Walnut wood ceiling.
After we saw the Supreme Court Chamber, the tour was over, but afterwards our guide recommended that we go up to the observation deck to see the view of the city. High above, the tiny elevator opened up to a small room that had two doors to the outside, and one of them was propped open. I ventured out the open door to a very narrow space on the outside of the building. Protected by a metal mesh supported by columns of stone that went high above my head, I was able to gaze out across the expanse of Lincoln and beyond. The view was spectacular, and although I felt the same flip in my stomach as it did every time I was confronted with a massive expanse, I realized that this time I wasn’t afraid; I actually enjoyed it. For the first time that I could remember, I enjoyed the uneasy feeling of being so high up. It was liberating.
After observing Lincoln in every direction, I returned to the elevator, which I took to the second floor. Stepping off, I was able to see the beautiful floor mosaic from above, giving a better view of the piece as a whole. As I journeyed around the second floor balcony, I encountered the law library, which serves as a reference for members of congress or the general public. Although it was not decorated to the same extent as the rest of the building, it was open, well lit, and pleasant. I returned to the main floor, basked for the last time in all of the elaborate designs surrounding me, and departed.
The next day I had to pack up my belongings and checked out of the hotel, but I still had to visit the Museum of Nebraska History. I ventured downtown, and after a few minutes, I finally found parking close to my destination. I explored the museum for about two hours. The cowboy exhibit was the one that set this museum apart from the other ones that I have visited. I have ridden horses since I was about five years old, and although I have never been a rancher or a cowgirl, I have a deep appreciation for all things equine. Western saddles used by cowboys are typically heavy, handmade, and durable. They are made of leather, and the craftsman usually carves designs into the leather to make it as beautiful as it is useful. After World War II, a leather shortage prompted a need for other materials to make saddles. William B. Vandegrift, a businessman from Alliance, Nebraska, began to experiment with the idea of making plastic saddles and founded the All Western Plastic Company in Lusk, Wyoming. Since the saddles became brittle and cold in the weather, ranchers and cowboys never really warmed up to the idea of saddles made of plastic. After a tornado destroyed their new factory in Scottsbluff, Nebraska, the All Western Plastic Company closed down. They only made 60 saddles during the short time that they were in business, and this museum has one of them on display.
The rest of the museum focused on the formation of Nebraska, the Civil War, and other things of a similar nature. Nebraska was one of the states bloodied by the Kansas-Nebraska Act, a bill passed by Congress that enabled the residents of the territories of Kansas and Nebraska to decide the legality of slavery by popular sovereignty. This legislation led to a massive migration into the region by advocates of either side. Those individuals tried to tip the scales in either direction through violence, intimidation, and sheer numbers. Although “Bleeding Kansas” was the more famous of the two, Nebraska saw plenty of the conflict as well. In 1864, Lincoln allowed the territory to write a constitution and organize a state government. Three years later, the state of Nebraska was born.
           I left the museum with a satisfied feeling of accomplishment. I felt like I got to know Lincoln as the charming college town that it was, and the Capitol building was among my favorites. During my visit, I learned that Nebraska is the only state with a unicameral legislature, and candidates must run on a non-partisan ballot. The natural history museum I visited was an interesting stop, and the Museum of Nebraska History was very informative. Many state museums have a heavy emphasis on the Civil War, and Nebraska’s had a particularly thorough exhibit due to its formation as a territory with the passing of the Kansas-Nebraska Act, which was one of the key pieces of legislation that led to the Civil War. Most of the individuals that I met were friendly and helpful, and the stories that I heard about Nebraskans of the past demonstrated that they possessed the hardiness to thrive on the plains. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Lincoln, and I as the sun lowered in the sky, I headed towards Kansas. 

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