Trenton, New Jersey

         New Jersey is my home. I was born there, raised there, and the vast majority of my life experience occurred within its borders. Like many other people, my feelings about my home state are mixed. I know it better than any other, so its attributes and drawbacks are more apparent to me than those of other states. Unfortunately, most people have a habit of focusing on the negatives of living in New Jersey, but there are definitely some endearing things about the Garden State.

For one, the people are typically very direct and at least a little sarcastic. While some people may not love those qualities in people, I most definitely do, because life is too short to beat around the bush and not tell people how it is. You’ll never be unsure of how someone feels about something in New Jersey, because they will tell you without a modicum of trepidation, regardless of who you are. In a world that struggles with honesty, I see this as a big plus.

Also, people who have not lived in New Jersey just don’t know what a good bagel is. I know you think you do, but you really don’t. You also don’t know what good pizza is. New York City likes to claim ownership of the best pizza in the world, and they’re right, but if you don’t feel like spending a ridiculous amount of money just to get to NYC and get a slice, come to New Jersey instead, because the pizza is just as good. Also, other places don’t have diners like New Jersey does. Real diners are open 24/7, their menus are the size of phone books, and the breakfasts are the best anywhere. Almost anyone who grows up in New Jersey knows and cherishes the ‘diner breakfast,’ and it is one of those things about our state that brings people together.

Other aspects of New Jersey have both benefits and drawbacks. The population density and proximity to New York City creates a culture of intense competition. For every person that does not fill a space, there are dozens of people behind him ready to occupy it. That concept applies to many things in New Jersey, including traffic, jobs, and lines at the coffee shop.  A crazy competitiveness leads to people being very assertive (and sometimes rude), to claim what they want or need. This "rat race” culture can be exhausting at times, but it also makes people strive for a degree of excellence that may not otherwise be reached. Businesses in New Jersey have to be remarkable to succeed, but people also have to work harder and longer to make ends meet.

Considering the chaos created by so many people living in such a small space, intense weather can be even crazier in New Jersey than it is in other places. The best recent example was super storm Sandy, which left over 2 million homes without power in New Jersey and over 300,000 homes damaged or destroyed. Having experienced the aftermath first hand, I can only describe it as post-apocalyptic. The morning after the worst of the storm, my boyfriend Rob and I drove north across the state to check on his parents, a drive that normally takes about 45 minutes. Because of all of the trees that were down, and the subsequent detours, it took us over 2 hours to finally reach our destination. There was no power at the towers, so cell phones weren’t working, and all of the traffic lights on Route 1 were out. The police had put up cones to discourage people from making lefts through on-coming traffic, but that didn’t prevent some reckless people from trying it. The next day they put up metal barriers, typically used at concerts to control crowds, in all of the affected intersections; still, people drove through. The third day, I was driving down Route 202 when I came upon a traffic light that was not operational, and they had lined up dump trucks in the intersection to prevent people from crossing. That seemed to do the trick.

This past winter was also very rough on New Jersey. Typically, we get a few snowstorms per season, but it is very unusual to have more than a couple of storms with an accumulation greater than six inches. This last summer we had at least 8 storms that exceeded that. Plus, it was incredibly cold, with weeks on end reaching lows below zero. It was so cold that my mother’s outdoor furniture cover became brittle and fell apart in tatters around the table and chairs. The potholes that filled the roads were craters, really. It was in the throes of this winter that I visited the Capitol, which sits on the Delaware River in the Capital City of Trenton. Trenton is one of the poorest state capitals, with a per capita income of only $14,631. There are a few wealthy neighborhoods, but most of those homes are on the outskirts of the city, away from the crime and poverty.

Trenton once wielded considerable industrial might, as referenced by its iconic slogan, “Trenton makes, the world takes,” which is emblazoned upon one of the bridges over the Delaware River. Trenton was most famous during the 1800s and early 1900s for its iron, steel, and rubber industries, but it was also known for its pottery. Trenton Iron Co. made wrought iron beams for the dome of the US Capitol Building and the Treasury Building in Washington D.C. John A. Roebling’s Sons Co. produced iron rope that was used to build some of the most famous suspension bridges in America, including the Brooklyn Bridge, the George Washington Bridge and the Golden Gate Bridge. Trenton Rubber Co. produced tires, helping Trenton earn the title ‘the nation’s tire capital’ during the early 1900s. Trenton was once one of the nation’s premier pottery manufacturers, and it produced everything from china to porcelain bathroom fixtures - its products were used everywhere from local diners to the White House. Many people are unaware of Trenton’s robust manufacturing history, as the city’s economy has taken a significant turn for the worse in recent decades. 

One of the things that may have caused the city’s decline was the flood of 1955. The summer that year was long, hot, and dry with temperatures in the 90s during most of July and early August. A severe drought left the ground parched and unable to absorb water, so the deluge that followed was unable to soak into the soil. On August 7th, the first of three storms hit, dropping 2.9 inches throughout the state. In the next two weeks, two hurricanes walloped the region, overwhelming the Delaware’s banks and causing widespread flooding throughout the area. The flood damaged totaled $100 million dollars, which is about $880 million today. In all, 50 bridges over the Delaware were damaged or destroyed.

After the flood, it seemed that Trenton never quite regained its previous influence. The race riot in April 1968 following the assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was the final straw that drove business, wealth, and opportunity away from the city of Trenton. More than 200 downtown businesses were ransacked and burned, and over 300 young black men were arrested on charges of assault, arson, and looting. The damage to businesses was estimated at $7 million, but insurance companies dropping coverage in the area destroyed any likelihood that they would rebuild. After the race riot, downtown Trenton never recovered. The fancy shopping district with boutiques and hair salons was destroyed, leaving empty damaged buildings behind that were eventually replaced by modern state government high rises. To this day, state government business is one of the few reasons for non-residents to go to Trenton, including myself.

My grandmother, Rob, and I all went down to Trenton on a sunny winter afternoon to take the state house tour. My grandmother used to be a docent at the Texas Capitol, and she is a fellow Capitol enthusiast, so we were very excited to check another state house off of our list. It was frigid outside and icy snow still caked the ground where it had thawed and refrozen countless times. The entire state had grown weary of this never-ending winter, and the feeling was exacerbated by the usual Trenton gloom. In the words of my brother the first time he came here, “Trenton is a sad city.” Every time I go there, I think the same thing.

We drove the twenty minutes from my hometown of Princeton, and were lucky to find a spot right in front of the Capitol. After snapping a few pictures of the outside, we hurried in to escape the bitter cold. As soon as we entered, we were directed through the security area and asked why we were here. At first we planned to skip the tour and just wander around by ourselves, but we swiftly learned that that wasn’t permitted. If you didn’t have an official appointment, you had to be with a tour guide. That’s a first - none of the other state Capitols we visited had such a rule. When I asked the security guard about the reasons behind such a strict policy, he simply replied, “9/11 changed a lot of things.” That it did.

We met the docent in the rotunda, and I told her about my project. She kindly offered to give our small group a private tour since a very large group was about to arrive to get a tour from her colleague. We thanked her, eager to learn about the building. Jonathon Doane built the original state house in 1792. It was a modest two-story building on a 3.75-acre plot. Since then, the building has been added on to and renovated many times to create the magnificent structure that stands there today. Our tour began in the rotunda, which is the room that connects the oldest part of the building to the first addition. The rotunda had several floors of galleries lined with historical portraits of governors and beautiful stained glass windows. 

We continued past the Governor’s office as the large group filed in, though our docent promised that we would see it at the end of our visit as long as the security officers said it was okay. I was still amazed by the level of security at this state house in particular; some of the other ones you can just walk in and nobody even seems to notice, but I guess it falls in line with the usual New Jersey neurosis (and please understand, I mean that lovingly).

Next was the hall of flags, which displayed historical battle flags from New Jersey regiments. This part of the building had a distinctly different feeling to it, with palely painted walls and bright overhead lights. The hall branched off in four directions, and in the center of the intersection was a glass case entitled, “The Glory of New Jersey.” It included the state tree, which is the red oak, along with the state bird, the eastern goldfinch, and the state flower, which is the violet. The work of art was commissioned by several private companies, and was the clear focal point of the hall. Next, we went to the Senate Chamber, where we viewed the room from the main floor.

The room was traditionally styled with plenty of columns and stained glass. In the back of the room there were two beautiful stained glass windows that faced the hallway, along with two stately fireplaces that were formerly used to heat the room. A rear corridor surrounded the Senator’s desks underneath the gallery, which was supported by columns. Once we stepped out onto the main part of the room, we could see the colorful stained glass dome many feet above. The docent pointed out that the dome features the names of famous New Jerseyans, including Governor William Livingston, inventor Seth Boyden, and Civil War General George B. McClellan. Artist William Brantley Van Ingen created 16 beautiful murals at the top of the wall all around the room. They depict New Jersey Revolutionary victories as well as industries that were important to New Jersey’s economy.

After seeing the Senate Chamber, we went upstairs to see if the Senate Committee room was unoccupied, but unfortunately there was a meeting going on, so we weren’t able to see that room. We walked across the second floor to see the House Chamber, looking at portraits of historical legislators along the way. The House Chamber was far more awe inspiring than its Senate counterpart. 

The Thomas Edison Electric Co. 66-bulb brass chandelier was first installed in 1891. It is the most beautiful feature in the entire Capitol not only for it’s intricate design, but also for its historical significance. It hangs from a metal support in the center of the stained glass skylight in the center of the ceiling, the focal point of the room. When I had finally taken in the chandelier in all of its glory, I noticed that the other features of the room were traditional and tasteful. Gold leaf details accentuate all of the moldings on the walls and ceiling. Portraits of Lincoln and Washington rest on either side of the Speaker’s desk, and the state seal hanging directly above the Speaker's chair. The carpet was deeply blue, and the seats in the gallery were original. After seeing so many state Capitols and their chambers, I was proud of New Jersey’s version.

On the way out of the building, we stopped in the Governor’s Reception Room where Governor Chris Christie signs bills and makes public announcements. The most recent governor’s portraits hang on all walls of the room, and the décor was relatively plain. At the end of the tour I thanked our docent for giving us such a wonderful tour. It was a pleasure to see New Jersey’s Capitol in all its glory, especially because it is the second oldest Capitol in continuous use in the nation. The tour even managed to give a little bit of brightness to that gloomy winter afternoon.

A few days later, we returned to Trenton to visit the Old Barracks, which has been converted to a museum to teach people about the lives of Revolutionary War soldiers. I went to the Barracks once before on a school field trip in second grade. I still had a few clear memories about the tour, and I was eager to take it again as an adult to see what I remembered.

It was another frigid February day in New Jersey, and we were the only visitors at that time. The docents were dressed in period clothing to add to the feelings of authenticity, though I was infinitely grateful that the owners had thought to put in modern heating technology. We bought our tickets in the gift shop, and began the tour with one of the wonderful docents. It started outside the building where she showed us the alterations that were made to the original structure over the years. Then we went to the soldier’s living quarters, which were cramped to say the least. The soldiers lived 4 to a tiny room, with 2 bunk beds and just enough space for a small table and chairs. They had examples of games that they would play to pass the time, and also some of the kinds of food that they would have eaten.

Then we were taken to the officer’s quarters, which were much more luxurious than the common soldier’s. The officers had fine china, delicious meals, and elegant furniture along with more comfortable beds. They also had plenty of alcohol and more forms of entertainment. It seems that life wasn’t so bad if you were an officer, at least not as bad as the common soldiers.

The final stop was the infirmary, where we learned about period methods of fighting infections and whether or not they were effective. I have to admit, sometimes I just wondered how someone thought about trying some of those methods, but it worked for them. It turned out that the infirmary was what I remembered the most from my grade-school visit, and I still think that it was the most interesting part of the tour.

My examination of New Jersey’s history was especially interesting for me because of its relevance to my own life, but New Jersey’s history is entwined with every American. New Jersey played a critical role in the Revolutionary War; the turning point occurred when Washington crossed the Delaware River in a severe storm on Christmas night to attack the Hessians in Trenton. New Jersey industry has played a crucial part in America’s economy before and since we became an independent nation. Also, my hometown of Princeton was the United States Capital from July to October 1783, and Nassau Hall of Princeton University housed the entire United States Government. So much of America’s history happened in New Jersey that every American was affected by it, and it has an irreplaceable presence in our great American puzzle.

Honolulu, Hawaii

My trip to Hawaii began differently than my visit to any other state. First, it was the only state that I had traveled to by air. One would think that the superior technology would make it more enjoyable, but the plane ride from the northeast was 11 hours, also making it the longest travel day of the trip so far. Plus, I was traveling with my family, who had only glimpsed the trip through the blog and my stop in Austin. Now, we were all headed to the island paradise that is perhaps the most unique of all the United States.

Hawaii is one of those states whose history has a huge impact on life there today, especially its recent history during its contact with the United States. Before it was a US territory, Hawaii was an independent monarchy. The first Protestant missionaries arrived on the islands in 1820 and immediately began to undermine Hawaiian spirituality. They outlawed hula, which is a spiritual dance used to communicate legends and life lessons to the younger generations, and in doing so they deprived entire generations of Hawaiians from one of the most important parts of their culture and heritage. With the missionaries and other mainlanders came diseases like smallpox that the Hawaiians had no immunity to, and the native population was rapidly decimated. With few Hawaiians to work the fields, the booming pineapple and sugar plantations drew in large numbers of Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, and Portuguese immigrants for cheap labor, effectively creating the demographics of Hawaii today. One of the reasons that these cultures coexist so well is the Hawaiian idea of Ohana, which is the idea that everyone is family. It is this cultural norm that makes Hawaii so welcoming. 

The Hawaiians greatly admired American democracy, and it was for this reason that they never expected to be taken over by the US. Hawaiians, in other words, made the mistake of trusting that the Americans of the time would respect their freedom more than they wished to acquire the islands. Unfortunately, the economic and military value of Hawaii was more compelling and the Hawaiians' trust was betrayed. Several powerful American business owners were beginning to get frustrated with the Hawaiian government, and in 1898, several companies of US Marines landed on the islands and took up positions around Oahu. Queen Lili’uokalani withdrew from the throne to prevent bloodshed, and although the Wilcox rebellion could have led to an all-out war, the Queen’s actions and the American’s swift response quelled any further rumblings of rebellion. The Hawaiians understandably resented the US for taking away their freedom and trying to convert them to Christianity, and many still feel the same to this day.

Despite the negatives of the American acquisition of the islands, one could argue that Hawaiians have far more advantages now than they would have otherwise. Aside from receiving all of the other benefits of American citizenship, Hawaiian customs have become known and celebrated all over the world. Hula is now performed internationally, and over the years Hawaiian cuisine has become a distinct blend of the islands’ many cultures. Tourism has benefited the islands in many ways, despite the fact that many Hawaiians resent that their homeland is commercialized for the financial gain of wealthy outsiders.

As a tourist there myself, I certainly appreciated opportunity to experience a slice of paradise. The morning after our arrival we climbed Diamond Head, which is a volcano just a short distance from Waikiki. It has been inactive for more than 10,000 years. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the big island (the biggest island is actually called Hawaii, but since we Americans refer to the whole archipelago as such, it is simply referred to as ‘the big island’) has an active volcano that erupts fairly frequently, but scientists believe that the ones on Oahu are unlikely to ever erupt again. As we arrived at the parking area in the crater, I took a moment to marvel at the fact that I was standing in a volcanic crater that formed tens of thousands of years ago. My, what a short glimpse we humans have of the natural wonders of the world! 

            There were many others hiking the trail as well. It is not a particularly grueling hike, but it is uneven in places and occasionally rather steep. I was impressed to see a few locals running up the trail as I trudged slowly ahead, thinking "Wow, what a cool place to take your morning jog, up a volcano!" As we climbed steadily higher, the view became more and more impressive. The sparkling ocean mirrored the clear blue sky as the sun shone down from the heavens, reminding me again of how blessed I was to be here. As the trail got steeper, there were fences protecting hikers adorned with signs that said, “Short cuts cause erosion; stay on trail.” When we neared the top we encountered a dark tunnel that cut through the rock. After a few dozen feet we emerged on the first of three stopping points, which gave us a spectacular view of the crater. We rounded the corner, and discovered that there were several flights of stairs to the top of the coastal auxiliary observation deck that was built in 1908. Once we reached the summit, the view of Honolulu was so astounding that I gasped in amazement. The buildings glistened in the morning sun, surrounded by the deep blue ocean and the rich green foliage of Oahu. The short, half-hour hike was more than worth it, and I was immediately thankful that I had done it.

            The way down was even quicker than the way up and by the time we reached the bottom we were more than ready for breakfast at the Diamond Head Grill. We each got variations on the fried rice platter. I got eggs and bacon on top of fried rice, which I thought was a very Hawaiian version of the bacon, egg, and cheese sandwiches that I have been enjoying in many of the states I have visited. We all went to a park and sat in the shade of tree to enjoy our hard-earned meal. It was certainly a wonderful breakfast, delicious and filling without being too paralyzing, and soon we were on our way back to the beach.

            The rest of the day we relaxed under the sun, taking occasional trips to the water to cool off or out into Waikiki to get some food. It is impossible not to be in a good mood while visiting Hawaii, not only because it is an island paradise but also because the people are so friendly, welcoming, and kind. The next day, my father and I were going to explore the Capitol and I’olani Palace, which promised to be two of the most distinct buildings of the trip so far. This is the only state that was previously a monarchy, and therefore the only ‘palace’ I would visit. I have to admit, I was really excited.

            The next day, we went to the Capitol in the late morning to begin our research. We parked in a visitor garage just a few blocks away and slowly walked up under the shadow of the clouds. As I approached, I could immediately tell that it was going to be interesting. Columns surrounded the exterior with eight on each side to represent the eight main islands of Hawaii, and reflecting pools at the bottom of the columns to symbolize the Pacific Ocean. Plus, the main floor of the Capitol was open-air! Four floors of covered galleries that shielded the hallways from the rain surrounded the main courtyard in the center, but where the rotunda would be, the room was open to the sky above. The offices were all enclosed with complete walls and ceilings, but the main hallways and the central courtyard were open to the elements. It is not uncommon for Hawaiian buildings to have whole walls that are open to the outside, but standing between the doors to the Senate and House Chambers (which were fully enclosed) and looking up at the sky was amazing. Given the lack of continual, heavy rainfall and the year-round perfect temperatures, Hawaii is the only state that could have their Capitol open to the outside, and it was this feature of the building that is most representative of Hawaiian culture. In the center of the courtyard, there was a blue mosaic representing water, as the Pacific Ocean is one of Hawaii’s most precious resources.

            The chambers themselves were modern, and were cone-shaped to symbolize the volcanoes. The back walls were rounded, with many semi-circular rows of lights on the ceiling, and the gallery was against the back wall, accessible from the main doors. Staircases led down to the floor on either side of the room, their constituents surrounding the congressmen on three sides. Across from the entrances, with their backs to the rounded wall, was the Speaker of the House or President of the Senate. Behind them hung an enormous, traditional tapestry themed in blue on the Senate side and red on the House side. In the center of the room hung a huge chandelier in the form of the pointed sphere. The entire design was extremely tasteful, beautiful, and appropriately representative of Hawaii. While I sat in on the Senate Session for a few moments, the Senate was recognizing a high school student for outstanding scholastic achievement. It was charming how small-town Hawaii feels at times. No matter how populated the area, there is this feeling of mutual respect and caring that is hard to describe in any other way. This part of the trip was when I was truly beginning to understand that the best form of government is local, because it is the only form that can truly cater to the needs of its citizens. How could the federal government ever make laws that were as practical and fair here as they are on the mainland? Most of the time, it can’t.

            The final stop before we left the building was in the Governor’s office on the fourth floor. Up there, the sky seemed so close you could reach out and touch it through the opening in the ceiling. Standing on the balconies on one side of the building, you could see the volcanoes shrouded in grey clouds, and on the other, Honolulu and the sea was laid out before you. Even the view was representative of Hawaii, showing all of the features this land had to offer. The doors to the Governor’s office were breathtakingly gorgeous, richer and brighter than any wood I have ever seen. It is from the Acacia koa, which is endemic to the Hawaiian Islands. Its name, Koa (as it is commonly referred to), also means ‘brave’ and ‘warrior.’ It is one of the most iconic plants in Hawaii, which has a very large population of native and endemic plants due to its isolation in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. The Governor’s office and Lieutenant Governor’s office had enormous doors made of Koa wood, and the walls inside were covered in Koa paneling. It was so beautiful that it made up for the general lack of artwork throughout the building, although there were a number of small portraits and sculptures in the offices as well. I felt as if this was one of the most representative Capitol buildings, as every aspect of the architecture and design had a symbolic purpose.

            After exploring the Capitol, we crossed the street to tour I’olani Palace, which promised to be even more interesting than the Capitol had been. Right across from the rear of the Capitol was a statue of Queen Lili’oukalani, Hawaii’s last queen. She had the indignity of witnessing the  conquering of her people, and she was imprisoned in her own Palace for almost a year after the Americans found evidence that she was involved in the conspiracy of the Wilcox Rebellion, which was the beginning of a native resistance. Queen Lili’oukalani, who had already stepped down from the throne to prevent any bloodshed, may not have been involved, but accepted it as gracefully as all the other injustices she was made to endure. Everyone should respect Queen Lili’oukalani, as it was because of her that there was little violence during the American acquisition of the Hawaiian Islands.

            My father and I purchased tickets for the tour in the armory, which has been converted to a gift shop and waiting area. After a few minutes, and short film about the history of the building, a docent arrived and took us along with a small group of others to the Palace. When we arrived we all sat down in rows of chairs on the front porch, and were given an audio player, a headset, and covers for our shoes so that we didn’t scuff the floors. After a few minutes of introductions and instructions, we were told to begin the audio recordings and walk in the front door.

The group began to wander as we all listened to the voices in our headphones, explaining the history and architecture of the building. A large central staircase dominated the main hall with the parlor and dining room on one side and the throne room on the other. Each room was decorated with the most formal furnishings, fit for any monarch. The recording described how luxurious the building was for its time, and all of its inhabitants entertained a wide range of guests, including many world leaders and important, powerful businessmen. Iolani Palace was equipped with electricity before both the White House and the national Capitol building, making it modern and intriguing to each guest. During meals the floor-to-ceiling windows in the dining room would be opened to allow in fresh air. Typically, a live band would be playing on the veranda for the entertainment of the guests, and the open windows would allow the music to be heard while still allowing for conversation. I remember thinking how sophisticated the building was (more so than many state Capitols, I might add) and how Hawaiian royalty lived as comfortably as many of their European and American counterparts.

The recording described every room and how the royal family used it. The upstairs was dedicated as the living quarters, and the rooms were arranged as they would have been during the final years of their reign. The two rooms that struck me the most were the ones in which Queen Lili’oukalani lived in during her imprisonment. One of them holds the patchwork quilt that she made during her time imprisoned there, and it exudes the emotional turmoil she must have been feeling. The design is chaotic and colorful, though mournful. I can only imagine the immense sadness that she must have felt, witnessing the end of Hawaii as she knew it at her people’s expense. The dilution of the culture she loved and identified with was inevitably going to continue, and it was through her own wisdom that she did not resist.

            By the time my father and I completed the tour we were both extremely hungry. I feverishly searched Yelp for a place to eat nearby and discovered a lunch place just a few blocks away called Café 8 1/2. It was a little family owned restaurant tucked away among all of the high rises in Honolulu’s business district. Inside, there were only a few tables, and the head chef and owner was chatting with their patrons while his wife served as the hostess and waitress. It was a tiny little place and the kitchen was separated from the seating area with curtain, and dirty dishes were stacked in one corner. Despite being rough around the edges, the place had a certain charm that seems to adorn any local gem. When the rest of the patrons left, it was just my father and I with the owners. We ordered the chicken sandwich with potato salad and greens to share, and it was great! The chef chatted with us throughout the meal about various things, and I couldn’t help but feel completely at home. That seems to be a talent of most people living in Hawaii, even if they haven’t spent their whole life living there.

            Feeling incredibly satisfied, we walked slowly back to our car, talking about all of the interesting things that we had learned about Hawaii. I felt that I was more able to appreciate the essence of the Hawaiian Islands, but I was even more aware of all the things that I still had to learn. I loved hiking to the top of Diamond Head, and how representative the Capitol building was of Hawaii. Everything had a symbolic meaning, enhanced by the presence of I’olani Palace right across the street. Café 8 ½ made me feel at home, and reminded me of the inherently welcoming nature of the state of Hawaii. After a few more days, I’d be returning home, though I promised myself that I’d be back before too long.