Honolulu, Hawaii

My trip to Hawaii began differently than my visit to any other state. First, it was the only state that I had traveled to by air. One would think that the superior technology would make it more enjoyable, but the plane ride from the northeast was 11 hours, also making it the longest travel day of the trip so far. Plus, I was traveling with my family, who had only glimpsed the trip through the blog and my stop in Austin. Now, we were all headed to the island paradise that is perhaps the most unique of all the United States.

Hawaii is one of those states whose history has a huge impact on life there today, especially its recent history during its contact with the United States. Before it was a US territory, Hawaii was an independent monarchy. The first Protestant missionaries arrived on the islands in 1820 and immediately began to undermine Hawaiian spirituality. They outlawed hula, which is a spiritual dance used to communicate legends and life lessons to the younger generations, and in doing so they deprived entire generations of Hawaiians from one of the most important parts of their culture and heritage. With the missionaries and other mainlanders came diseases like smallpox that the Hawaiians had no immunity to, and the native population was rapidly decimated. With few Hawaiians to work the fields, the booming pineapple and sugar plantations drew in large numbers of Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, and Portuguese immigrants for cheap labor, effectively creating the demographics of Hawaii today. One of the reasons that these cultures coexist so well is the Hawaiian idea of Ohana, which is the idea that everyone is family. It is this cultural norm that makes Hawaii so welcoming. 

The Hawaiians greatly admired American democracy, and it was for this reason that they never expected to be taken over by the US. Hawaiians, in other words, made the mistake of trusting that the Americans of the time would respect their freedom more than they wished to acquire the islands. Unfortunately, the economic and military value of Hawaii was more compelling and the Hawaiians' trust was betrayed. Several powerful American business owners were beginning to get frustrated with the Hawaiian government, and in 1898, several companies of US Marines landed on the islands and took up positions around Oahu. Queen Lili’uokalani withdrew from the throne to prevent bloodshed, and although the Wilcox rebellion could have led to an all-out war, the Queen’s actions and the American’s swift response quelled any further rumblings of rebellion. The Hawaiians understandably resented the US for taking away their freedom and trying to convert them to Christianity, and many still feel the same to this day.

Despite the negatives of the American acquisition of the islands, one could argue that Hawaiians have far more advantages now than they would have otherwise. Aside from receiving all of the other benefits of American citizenship, Hawaiian customs have become known and celebrated all over the world. Hula is now performed internationally, and over the years Hawaiian cuisine has become a distinct blend of the islands’ many cultures. Tourism has benefited the islands in many ways, despite the fact that many Hawaiians resent that their homeland is commercialized for the financial gain of wealthy outsiders.

As a tourist there myself, I certainly appreciated opportunity to experience a slice of paradise. The morning after our arrival we climbed Diamond Head, which is a volcano just a short distance from Waikiki. It has been inactive for more than 10,000 years. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the big island (the biggest island is actually called Hawaii, but since we Americans refer to the whole archipelago as such, it is simply referred to as ‘the big island’) has an active volcano that erupts fairly frequently, but scientists believe that the ones on Oahu are unlikely to ever erupt again. As we arrived at the parking area in the crater, I took a moment to marvel at the fact that I was standing in a volcanic crater that formed tens of thousands of years ago. My, what a short glimpse we humans have of the natural wonders of the world! 

            There were many others hiking the trail as well. It is not a particularly grueling hike, but it is uneven in places and occasionally rather steep. I was impressed to see a few locals running up the trail as I trudged slowly ahead, thinking "Wow, what a cool place to take your morning jog, up a volcano!" As we climbed steadily higher, the view became more and more impressive. The sparkling ocean mirrored the clear blue sky as the sun shone down from the heavens, reminding me again of how blessed I was to be here. As the trail got steeper, there were fences protecting hikers adorned with signs that said, “Short cuts cause erosion; stay on trail.” When we neared the top we encountered a dark tunnel that cut through the rock. After a few dozen feet we emerged on the first of three stopping points, which gave us a spectacular view of the crater. We rounded the corner, and discovered that there were several flights of stairs to the top of the coastal auxiliary observation deck that was built in 1908. Once we reached the summit, the view of Honolulu was so astounding that I gasped in amazement. The buildings glistened in the morning sun, surrounded by the deep blue ocean and the rich green foliage of Oahu. The short, half-hour hike was more than worth it, and I was immediately thankful that I had done it.

            The way down was even quicker than the way up and by the time we reached the bottom we were more than ready for breakfast at the Diamond Head Grill. We each got variations on the fried rice platter. I got eggs and bacon on top of fried rice, which I thought was a very Hawaiian version of the bacon, egg, and cheese sandwiches that I have been enjoying in many of the states I have visited. We all went to a park and sat in the shade of tree to enjoy our hard-earned meal. It was certainly a wonderful breakfast, delicious and filling without being too paralyzing, and soon we were on our way back to the beach.

            The rest of the day we relaxed under the sun, taking occasional trips to the water to cool off or out into Waikiki to get some food. It is impossible not to be in a good mood while visiting Hawaii, not only because it is an island paradise but also because the people are so friendly, welcoming, and kind. The next day, my father and I were going to explore the Capitol and I’olani Palace, which promised to be two of the most distinct buildings of the trip so far. This is the only state that was previously a monarchy, and therefore the only ‘palace’ I would visit. I have to admit, I was really excited.

            The next day, we went to the Capitol in the late morning to begin our research. We parked in a visitor garage just a few blocks away and slowly walked up under the shadow of the clouds. As I approached, I could immediately tell that it was going to be interesting. Columns surrounded the exterior with eight on each side to represent the eight main islands of Hawaii, and reflecting pools at the bottom of the columns to symbolize the Pacific Ocean. Plus, the main floor of the Capitol was open-air! Four floors of covered galleries that shielded the hallways from the rain surrounded the main courtyard in the center, but where the rotunda would be, the room was open to the sky above. The offices were all enclosed with complete walls and ceilings, but the main hallways and the central courtyard were open to the elements. It is not uncommon for Hawaiian buildings to have whole walls that are open to the outside, but standing between the doors to the Senate and House Chambers (which were fully enclosed) and looking up at the sky was amazing. Given the lack of continual, heavy rainfall and the year-round perfect temperatures, Hawaii is the only state that could have their Capitol open to the outside, and it was this feature of the building that is most representative of Hawaiian culture. In the center of the courtyard, there was a blue mosaic representing water, as the Pacific Ocean is one of Hawaii’s most precious resources.

            The chambers themselves were modern, and were cone-shaped to symbolize the volcanoes. The back walls were rounded, with many semi-circular rows of lights on the ceiling, and the gallery was against the back wall, accessible from the main doors. Staircases led down to the floor on either side of the room, their constituents surrounding the congressmen on three sides. Across from the entrances, with their backs to the rounded wall, was the Speaker of the House or President of the Senate. Behind them hung an enormous, traditional tapestry themed in blue on the Senate side and red on the House side. In the center of the room hung a huge chandelier in the form of the pointed sphere. The entire design was extremely tasteful, beautiful, and appropriately representative of Hawaii. While I sat in on the Senate Session for a few moments, the Senate was recognizing a high school student for outstanding scholastic achievement. It was charming how small-town Hawaii feels at times. No matter how populated the area, there is this feeling of mutual respect and caring that is hard to describe in any other way. This part of the trip was when I was truly beginning to understand that the best form of government is local, because it is the only form that can truly cater to the needs of its citizens. How could the federal government ever make laws that were as practical and fair here as they are on the mainland? Most of the time, it can’t.

            The final stop before we left the building was in the Governor’s office on the fourth floor. Up there, the sky seemed so close you could reach out and touch it through the opening in the ceiling. Standing on the balconies on one side of the building, you could see the volcanoes shrouded in grey clouds, and on the other, Honolulu and the sea was laid out before you. Even the view was representative of Hawaii, showing all of the features this land had to offer. The doors to the Governor’s office were breathtakingly gorgeous, richer and brighter than any wood I have ever seen. It is from the Acacia koa, which is endemic to the Hawaiian Islands. Its name, Koa (as it is commonly referred to), also means ‘brave’ and ‘warrior.’ It is one of the most iconic plants in Hawaii, which has a very large population of native and endemic plants due to its isolation in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. The Governor’s office and Lieutenant Governor’s office had enormous doors made of Koa wood, and the walls inside were covered in Koa paneling. It was so beautiful that it made up for the general lack of artwork throughout the building, although there were a number of small portraits and sculptures in the offices as well. I felt as if this was one of the most representative Capitol buildings, as every aspect of the architecture and design had a symbolic purpose.

            After exploring the Capitol, we crossed the street to tour I’olani Palace, which promised to be even more interesting than the Capitol had been. Right across from the rear of the Capitol was a statue of Queen Lili’oukalani, Hawaii’s last queen. She had the indignity of witnessing the  conquering of her people, and she was imprisoned in her own Palace for almost a year after the Americans found evidence that she was involved in the conspiracy of the Wilcox Rebellion, which was the beginning of a native resistance. Queen Lili’oukalani, who had already stepped down from the throne to prevent any bloodshed, may not have been involved, but accepted it as gracefully as all the other injustices she was made to endure. Everyone should respect Queen Lili’oukalani, as it was because of her that there was little violence during the American acquisition of the Hawaiian Islands.

            My father and I purchased tickets for the tour in the armory, which has been converted to a gift shop and waiting area. After a few minutes, and short film about the history of the building, a docent arrived and took us along with a small group of others to the Palace. When we arrived we all sat down in rows of chairs on the front porch, and were given an audio player, a headset, and covers for our shoes so that we didn’t scuff the floors. After a few minutes of introductions and instructions, we were told to begin the audio recordings and walk in the front door.

The group began to wander as we all listened to the voices in our headphones, explaining the history and architecture of the building. A large central staircase dominated the main hall with the parlor and dining room on one side and the throne room on the other. Each room was decorated with the most formal furnishings, fit for any monarch. The recording described how luxurious the building was for its time, and all of its inhabitants entertained a wide range of guests, including many world leaders and important, powerful businessmen. Iolani Palace was equipped with electricity before both the White House and the national Capitol building, making it modern and intriguing to each guest. During meals the floor-to-ceiling windows in the dining room would be opened to allow in fresh air. Typically, a live band would be playing on the veranda for the entertainment of the guests, and the open windows would allow the music to be heard while still allowing for conversation. I remember thinking how sophisticated the building was (more so than many state Capitols, I might add) and how Hawaiian royalty lived as comfortably as many of their European and American counterparts.

The recording described every room and how the royal family used it. The upstairs was dedicated as the living quarters, and the rooms were arranged as they would have been during the final years of their reign. The two rooms that struck me the most were the ones in which Queen Lili’oukalani lived in during her imprisonment. One of them holds the patchwork quilt that she made during her time imprisoned there, and it exudes the emotional turmoil she must have been feeling. The design is chaotic and colorful, though mournful. I can only imagine the immense sadness that she must have felt, witnessing the end of Hawaii as she knew it at her people’s expense. The dilution of the culture she loved and identified with was inevitably going to continue, and it was through her own wisdom that she did not resist.

            By the time my father and I completed the tour we were both extremely hungry. I feverishly searched Yelp for a place to eat nearby and discovered a lunch place just a few blocks away called Café 8 1/2. It was a little family owned restaurant tucked away among all of the high rises in Honolulu’s business district. Inside, there were only a few tables, and the head chef and owner was chatting with their patrons while his wife served as the hostess and waitress. It was a tiny little place and the kitchen was separated from the seating area with curtain, and dirty dishes were stacked in one corner. Despite being rough around the edges, the place had a certain charm that seems to adorn any local gem. When the rest of the patrons left, it was just my father and I with the owners. We ordered the chicken sandwich with potato salad and greens to share, and it was great! The chef chatted with us throughout the meal about various things, and I couldn’t help but feel completely at home. That seems to be a talent of most people living in Hawaii, even if they haven’t spent their whole life living there.

            Feeling incredibly satisfied, we walked slowly back to our car, talking about all of the interesting things that we had learned about Hawaii. I felt that I was more able to appreciate the essence of the Hawaiian Islands, but I was even more aware of all the things that I still had to learn. I loved hiking to the top of Diamond Head, and how representative the Capitol building was of Hawaii. Everything had a symbolic meaning, enhanced by the presence of I’olani Palace right across the street. Café 8 ½ made me feel at home, and reminded me of the inherently welcoming nature of the state of Hawaii. After a few more days, I’d be returning home, though I promised myself that I’d be back before too long.