It was a short drive from
Richmond to Annapolis, and we soon found ourselves in Maryland with some time
to relax. It was a crisp November afternoon, and the setting sun bathed the
historic town in a golden glow as we settled down in our accommodations. We
chose a Japanese restaurant for dinner called Ziki and decided to order some
sushi. After a delicious meal, we prepared for the visit to the Capitol the
following day. There were just two days left on this half of the journey before
we arrived back in New Jersey, where we couldn’t wait to hibernate for the
winter. After all of this travel, we certainly weren’t going to be moving
around a lot during our time at home.
The next day we woke up and
packed up our things before going to breakfast at the Double T Diner. For weeks,
we had been deprived of a true northeastern diner, which are rare in most other
parts of the country, and we had cravings to satisfy. I ordered my usual bacon,
egg, and cheese sandwich, and Rob ordered the two-egg breakfast with bacon and
breakfast potatoes. Both the breakfast and the coffee were excellent, as is to
be expected for breakfast at a northeastern diner. We left feeling satisfied
and ready to tackle the day, and drove into downtown.
The Maryland Capitol was
completed in 1797, and is the oldest state Capitol in continuous use in the
United States It is a modest brick building in the center of Annapolis,
surrounded by one-way streets. The surrounding area reminds me of several New
England port towns, which are similarly charming and difficult to navigate
through. After circling a few block several times in order to find parking, I
finally found a spot just a few blocks away.
As I approached the Capitol I
began to think about some of the important events in Maryland’s history and how
they relate to cultural identity of the United States. The War of 1812 and the
Battle of Baltimore are not well known in our nation’s history, despite the
fact that they inspired the birth of our national anthem, “The Star-Spangled
Banner” by Francis Scott Key. It was also the conflict that solidified our
status as an independent nation, because we defeated the British not just once
during the Revolution, but also a second time barely after the turn of the 19th
century. It showed the world that the U.S.A. wasn’t just a temporary revolt
against the largest empire in the world, but the beginning of enormous
revolution that would spread to many of the other oppressed colonies in the
world.
As the war descended upon our young
nation, our armies were hardly prepared for another large conflict so soon
after the birth of our country. In fact, when it came to defending Maryland,
the federal government told state officials that they were on their own.
Farmers and civilians became soldiers once again, creating makeshift defenses
that would have folded under a full-on siege of the coastal state. The Royal
Navy took up residency in the Chesapeake Bay, unchallenged and basically free
to do what they wished. For months the British interfered with trade, harassed
fisherman, and loomed ominously as the citizens of Maryland lived under the
constant threat of all-out war.
The Battle of Baltimore was one
of the most important victories in the war. Defenses to the North and along the
coast were hastily prepared as the advance of the British drew closer. Fort
McHenry, a star-shaped military fort positioned on a piece of land that project
into the bay, served as the primary obstacle between the Royal Navy and the
city of Baltimore. The British bombarded the fort for a total of 27 hours, but
the fort’s defenses sustained. When the troops inside raised a large, intact
American flag in the morning to replace the battle-torn copy, it was a signal
to the citizens on the mainland that the British had failed to take Fort
McHenry. Francis Scott Key, who had witnessed the bombardment while under
British guard on an American truce vessel, was so moved by the sight that he
wrote the poem that would become our nation’s anthem.
On land, there was a conflict near
the city referred to as the Battle of North Point, in which there were extensive
British casualties including Major General Robert Ross. When the British
reached the city, they realized that their forces had failed to take the Fort,
and were confronted by 15,000 American soldiers. They wisely decided to
withdraw. The Battle of Baltimore was the turning point for the War of 1812 and
the Chesapeake Campaign. Not long afterward the Treaty of Ghent was signed,
officially ending the war.
As I approached the Capitol circle,
I noticed several things on the grounds. The first was an ancient brick
building which used to be the State Treasury. The building dates back to the
1600s, and is no longer in use, but it remains on the Capitol grounds as a
historical site. On the other side of the building, there was a tree dedicated
to Martin Luther King, Jr, as well as a bell from the U.S.S. Maryland. After looking around the grounds, I continued to the
visitor’s entrance.
As I walked inside, I noticed that a
few workers were putting wreaths on the windows in celebration of the holiday
season, which made the charming building all the more endearing. Aside from the
security guard and a few workers, there wasn’t a soul in the building. The
inside was small, but the space was well-utilized, with all the legislative
rooms on the main floor. The current House and Senate Chambers are just inside
the visitor’s entrance on either side of the hall. I like both of the rooms in
terms of their décor; the stone was particularly handsome. Neither room was
very spacious, which wasn’t surprising given the modest size and age of the
entire building.
One of the next rooms down the
hall serves as an exhibit on the Capitol and its construction, including a
photographic view of the interior of the dome. I paused to read and photograph
the displays before heading to the rotunda. The rotunda was completely white
with skylights at its peak, and the architectural detail of the columns
finished the classic, refined look. The Christmas tree had just been put up
that morning, and an orange ladder was still standing next to the evergreen
giant. Seeing the holiday decorations filled me with a feeling of finality, as
this was the second to last stop on this part of the trip before I went home
for the winter.
Past the rotunda, the Old Senate
Chamber was still being refurbished back to its historic appearance, but the
Old House Chamber is open to the public. The beautifully decorated room is
currently used for meetings and social events, and also is open to visitors
with a few small placards giving information on the room, its history, and the
art within.
After exploring the Capitol, I
drove through Annapolis’ downtown, past the marina, and around the Navy Academy
before heading to Delaware. It was a gloomy, grey day by the sea, and I wanted
to reach Dover in time to eat dinner and relax before the following day of
research. As I drove I thought about the things that I learned, and already
knew, about the state of Maryland.
For one thing, Maryland has always
depended upon the sea. In fact, Annapolis is known as the Sailing Capital of
the world! From sailing to the seafood industry, Maryland’s greatest natural
asset is its marine access. The seafood industry in Maryland is one of the best
in the nation, which anyone who has ever ordered a ‘Maryland crab cake’
knows. The Chesapeake Bay generates 50%
of the nation’s blue crab, and the seafood industry adds $600 million to the
Maryland’s economy each year. Maryland’s benefits from the sea are numerous, including
the many islands that are a part of the state of Maryland.
One of the most
famous of these islands is that of Assateague Island, which is home to a herd
of wild ponies. Wild ponies have inhabited Assateague Island and the Virginian
island of Chincoteague for hundreds of years. Due to the massive amount of
shipwrecks that occurred along the Atlantic coast during the colonial period,
the ponies likely arrived there after a shipwreck. Every year in the summer
time, officials round up a number of the ponies and they swim to the mainland,
where they are sold at auction. I have always wanted to see the ponies, but I
never have. Given that this is one of the only places left in the U.S. where
wild horses are allowed to be wild (except for a few Rocky Mountain states), I
think that Assateague Island is one of Maryland’s most interesting features.
Maryland’s history is important
to that of the rest of the country, especially due to its role during the War
of 1812. Without the victory of the Battle of Baltimore, who knows what the
outcome of the war would have been, or what our national anthem would be?
I enjoyed learning about
Maryland’s history and what it has to offer. For now, it was time to move on to
Delaware before driving home to New Jersey for the winter.
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