Dover, Delaware

       The drive from Annapolis wound through country hills in the misty grey afternoon. Before long, we arrived in town, made dinner, and relaxed for the evening. The next day was to be my 33rd Capitol visit, the last one on this segment of the trip. I already felt a combination of pride and nostalgia welling up inside of me at the thought of being 3/5 done with the 50 Capitals Project. Heaven knows that we were exhausted, and we couldn’t wait to be stationary for a while.

The following morning we awoke and packed our belongings for the final time in 2013, and left the hotel in the late morning. The December day proved to be beautiful and sunny, but cold. By the time we reached our lunch stop, the sun was already tinged with that winter’s glow. Capriotti’s Sandwich Shop was in the back of a strip mall in the suburbs of Dover. It was a bit hard to find, but once we got there, we discovered that we had made the right choice. We ordered our sandwiches in the front before sitting in the ample dining area. Two TVs were going at once with the sound on, and the echo was a bit maddening. I am more noise-sensitive than the average human being, so this was more of a drawback for me than it may be for others. One of the staff members brought over our food when it was ready. The sandwiches were great! My only complaint would be that the meat was sliced thick, when I prefer my deli meat sliced thin. Other than that, the ingredients were high-quality, the service was excellent, and the price was right!

After being unable to finish the entire 9” sandwich, we left the restaurant feeling satisfied and prepared to tackle the Capitol visit. It was just a short drive over to the Capitol, which is known as “Legislative Hall.” The building, which is modest and made of brick, faced a large green lawn that was surrounded by other government structures. One of them was the Old State Capitol, which I planned on visiting after exploring the historic edifice of Legislative Hall.

An extremely friendly security guard greeted us and gave us a map of the building. Upstairs we visited the gallery of each chamber, which were very similar to each other. Most Capitols choose differing color schemes in each of their chambers to keep things interesting, but these two chambers were the same except their different murals depicting scenes from Delaware’s history, including scenes from colonial America and the Revolution.

In the rear hallways, I noticed several relief works that showed scenes from American history, including Columbus arriving in the New World, and Washington crossing the Delaware River. They were by far the most interesting works of art in the building, and the most unique works when compared to the murals and reliefs of other Capitols. Before leaving, we ran into one of the maintenance workers, who spoke with us for several minutes about the building. He told us that he wished he could show us the inside of the cupola, because there were all sorts of antique graffiti up there. Apparently, the men who built the structure decided to mark their place in history, usually with a name and date, some dating back to the Great Depression. Although I was sorry that I couldn’t see them, I was glad that I had run into this gentleman and learned about them.

After a short exploration of the present Legislative Hall, we were eager to see the Old Capitol and were hoping that there would be more substance to learn about. This building was even smaller than the last, and also made of brick, with a sign in front declaring it open. After taking a few photos, we went inside and met the docent, Tom, who was a fellow history lover. He told us many things about Delaware, but most of the conversation pertained to an unsung hero of the Revolution, Allen McLane, who served General Washington in many ways, including as a spy.

Allen McLane was born August 8th, 1746 in Philadelphia where he spent his childhood and the beginning of his adult life. At age 21, he moved to Central Delaware, and his father became a wealthy merchant in Philadelphia. McLane served in General George Washington’s Army during the Revolution, and he played a critical part in many of the battles. He was particularly skilled at scouting out the enemy and warning Washington of their movements, which ultimately enabled Washington to gain the upper hand in the war. McLane was also one of the first people to warn Washington of Benedict Arnold’s behavior almost a year prior to his treason. McLane had become wary of Arnold’s loyalties after discovering some profiteering that he had been involved in, but Washington reprimanded McLane for doubting the character of a fellow soldier without proof. A year later, Arnold’s treason was discovered, and McLane’s skepticism was proven correct.

McLane played a major part in outsmarting the British, and often does not get enough credit for his actions. If it wasn’t for McLane’s tracking of enemy movements during the Army’s encampment in Valley Forge, Washington’s troops would not have been able to adequately defend their camp. He also inhibited the British by blocking their expeditions and stealing their cattle, weakening the opponent’s will. One could argue that Valley Forge was where the American Revolution was won, because it was then that the British began to realize that we could out-sustain them in the harsh conditions of our homeland. Their morale continued to weaken as soldiers got sick, the air got colder, and the snow got deeper, and McLane’s intimidations added to their problems.  

After the war, McLane returned to Delaware, where he continued to be politically active. He was a marshal of Delaware, and he was a collector for the port of Delaware until his death in 1829. During the War of 1812, at the age of 68, he commanded the defenses of Wilmington. Only 3 of his 14 children lived past infancy.

I thanked Tom for teaching me so much about this Revolutionary hero, and I pledged to honor Allen McLane by including his story in this post. He showed us the remaining rooms of the Old Capitol, which reminded me of the Old Capitol in Florida, but it was much older and smaller. There were a few portraits and other antiques, but aside from that the building wasn’t particularly spectacular. Meeting and speaking with Tom about Allen McLane was the highlight of the visit and taught me the most about Delaware, its role in American history, and one of its most important historical figures.

Now it was time to get back on the road, heading to New Jersey to spend the winter at home before the next part of our trip in the spring. We learned many things about our country, and we’d seen a lot of things, but there was still so much ahead.

Annapolis, Maryland

      It was a short drive from Richmond to Annapolis, and we soon found ourselves in Maryland with some time to relax. It was a crisp November afternoon, and the setting sun bathed the historic town in a golden glow as we settled down in our accommodations. We chose a Japanese restaurant for dinner called Ziki and decided to order some sushi. After a delicious meal, we prepared for the visit to the Capitol the following day. There were just two days left on this half of the journey before we arrived back in New Jersey, where we couldn’t wait to hibernate for the winter. After all of this travel, we certainly weren’t going to be moving around a lot during our time at home.

      The next day we woke up and packed up our things before going to breakfast at the Double T Diner. For weeks, we had been deprived of a true northeastern diner, which are rare in most other parts of the country, and we had cravings to satisfy. I ordered my usual bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich, and Rob ordered the two-egg breakfast with bacon and breakfast potatoes. Both the breakfast and the coffee were excellent, as is to be expected for breakfast at a northeastern diner. We left feeling satisfied and ready to tackle the day, and drove into downtown.

       The Maryland Capitol was completed in 1797, and is the oldest state Capitol in continuous use in the United States It is a modest brick building in the center of Annapolis, surrounded by one-way streets. The surrounding area reminds me of several New England port towns, which are similarly charming and difficult to navigate through. After circling a few block several times in order to find parking, I finally found a spot just a few blocks away.

As I approached the Capitol I began to think about some of the important events in Maryland’s history and how they relate to cultural identity of the United States. The War of 1812 and the Battle of Baltimore are not well known in our nation’s history, despite the fact that they inspired the birth of our national anthem, “The Star-Spangled Banner” by Francis Scott Key. It was also the conflict that solidified our status as an independent nation, because we defeated the British not just once during the Revolution, but also a second time barely after the turn of the 19^th century. It showed the world that the U.S.A. wasn’t just a temporary revolt against the largest empire in the world, but the beginning of enormous revolution that would spread to many of the other oppressed colonies in the world.

           As the war descended upon our young nation, our armies were hardly prepared for another large conflict so soon after the birth of our country. In fact, when it came to defending Maryland, the federal government told state officials that they were on their own. Farmers and civilians became soldiers once again, creating makeshift defenses that would have folded under a full-on siege of the coastal state. The Royal Navy took up residency in the Chesapeake Bay, unchallenged and basically free to do what they wished. For months the British interfered with trade, harassed fisherman, and loomed ominously as the citizens of Maryland lived under the constant threat of all-out war.

          The Battle of Baltimore was one of the most important victories in the war. Defenses to the North and along the coast were hastily prepared as the advance of the British drew closer. Fort McHenry, a star-shaped military fort positioned on a piece of land that project into the bay, served as the primary obstacle between the Royal Navy and the city of Baltimore. The British bombarded the fort for a total of 27 hours, but the fort’s defenses sustained. When the troops inside raised a large, intact American flag in the morning to replace the battle-torn copy, it was a signal to the citizens on the mainland that the British had failed to take Fort McHenry. Francis Scott Key, who had witnessed the bombardment while under British guard on an American truce vessel, was so moved by the sight that he wrote the poem that would become our nation’s anthem.

          On land, there was a conflict near the city referred to as the Battle of North Point, in which there were extensive British casualties including Major General Robert Ross. When the British reached the city, they realized that their forces had failed to take the Fort, and were confronted by 15,000 American soldiers. They wisely decided to withdraw. The Battle of Baltimore was the turning point for the War of 1812 and the Chesapeake Campaign. Not long afterward the Treaty of Ghent was signed, officially ending the war.

            As I approached the Capitol circle, I noticed several things on the grounds. The first was an ancient brick building which used to be the State Treasury. The building dates back to the 1600s, and is no longer in use, but it remains on the Capitol grounds as a historical site. On the other side of the building, there was a tree dedicated to Martin Luther King, Jr, as well as a bell from the U.S.S. Maryland. After looking around the grounds, I continued to the visitor’s entrance.

            As I walked inside, I noticed that a few workers were putting wreaths on the windows in celebration of the holiday season, which made the charming building all the more endearing. Aside from the security guard and a few workers, there wasn’t a soul in the building. The inside was small, but the space was well-utilized, with all the legislative rooms on the main floor. The current House and Senate Chambers are just inside the visitor’s entrance on either side of the hall. I like both of the rooms in terms of their décor; the stone was particularly handsome. Neither room was very spacious, which wasn’t surprising given the modest size and age of the entire building.

           One of the next rooms down the hall serves as an exhibit on the Capitol and its construction, including a photographic view of the interior of the dome. I paused to read and photograph the displays before heading to the rotunda. The rotunda was completely white with skylights at its peak, and the architectural detail of the columns finished the classic, refined look. The Christmas tree had just been put up that morning, and an orange ladder was still standing next to the evergreen giant. Seeing the holiday decorations filled me with a feeling of finality, as this was the second to last stop on this part of the trip before I went home for the winter.

          Past the rotunda, the Old Senate Chamber was still being refurbished back to its historic appearance, but the Old House Chamber is open to the public. The beautifully decorated room is currently used for meetings and social events, and also is open to visitors with a few small placards giving information on the room, its history, and the art within.

          After exploring the Capitol, I drove through Annapolis’ downtown, past the marina, and around the Navy Academy before heading to Delaware. It was a gloomy, grey day by the sea, and I wanted to reach Dover in time to eat dinner and relax before the following day of research. As I drove I thought about the things that I learned, and already knew, about the state of Maryland.

For one thing, Maryland has always depended upon the sea. In fact, Annapolis is known as the Sailing Capital of the world! From sailing to the seafood industry, Maryland’s greatest natural asset is its marine access. The seafood industry in Maryland is one of the best in the nation, which anyone who has ever ordered a ‘Maryland crab cake’ knows.  The Chesapeake Bay generates 50% of the nation’s blue crab, and the seafood industry adds $600 million to the Maryland’s economy each year. Maryland’s benefits from the sea are numerous, including the many islands that are a part of the state of Maryland.

          One of the most famous of these islands is that of Assateague Island, which is home to a herd of wild ponies. Wild ponies have inhabited Assateague Island and the Virginian island of Chincoteague for hundreds of years. Due to the massive amount of shipwrecks that occurred along the Atlantic coast during the colonial period, the ponies likely arrived there after a shipwreck. Every year in the summer time, officials round up a number of the ponies and they swim to the mainland, where they are sold at auction. I have always wanted to see the ponies, but I never have. Given that this is one of the only places left in the U.S. where wild horses are allowed to be wild (except for a few Rocky Mountain states), I think that Assateague Island is one of Maryland’s most interesting features.

          Maryland’s history is important to that of the rest of the country, especially due to its role during the War of 1812. Without the victory of the Battle of Baltimore, who knows what the outcome of the war would have been, or what our national anthem would be?

           I enjoyed learning about Maryland’s history and what it has to offer. For now, it was time to move on to Delaware before driving home to New Jersey for the winter.